Monday, May 25, 2009

Stuck in my Gullet




I have to apologise. I recently rudely suggested that gullets never set their sails. Well, in 25kts of wind this chap (pictured) put up all he had and the result was stunning to look at and I imagine marvellous to be aboard. Sorry Mr gullet captain, I think you are wonderful.
Did I ever mention I am a qualified yacht mistress. I have a certificate ! It says I am competent. I think I got it cos I admired the examiners feet. He had the most amazingly prehensile toes. A halyard got stuck and he stepped out of what I imagine were once deck shoes, and climbed up the mast, gripping it with his toes. I just mentioned it cos I have taken two weeks to get from Marmaris to Bodrum which you might think suggests something lacking in the navigational department. Well actually it was intentional. We hopped across from gulf to island to gulf, then back again.
Ironically we didn’t do too much sailing. The wind always managed to contrive to be coming from exactly where we wanted to go, but not very strong. If we tried to be sneaky and go with it, it promptly packed up shop and went home.
The gulf of Hisaronu and particularly Orhaniye are amongst the most beautiful places I have visited . Anchoring behind the island under the stars doesn’t have an adjective that can describe it. Gokova gulf I thought was less stunning but lots of pretty coves and we found one with a holiday village. Hobie cats , water skiers and trainee wind surfers fell into the water with alarming frequency and occasionally had to be rounded up and returned back to the bay by a patient ‘speed dog’ boat .
The ‘village’ was strangely attractive. Hidden discretely amongst the trees, it had manicured lawns, signs everywhere and three, yes three restaurants. Turkish , International and Thematic. Before you look at Patrick Moores guide to the galaxies let me tell you that Thematic isn’t in the nebula Andromeda. It means ‘themed’ ( of course you knew that didn’t you ?) The night we went the theme was Indian. It was reeeally bland. More Kumars at no 35 than Bradford on a Friday night, but ok and lovely views.
And today on the way back. Well I’ve just had, well I am having, one of the nicest days of my life. We sailed up from Gokova to an island off Bodrum to stop for lunch. It was idyllic. Ok the gullets and ice cream vendors , and banana speed boats, wouldn’t figure in an ad for bounty bars, but after a swim in really crystal clear waters we had champagne and feta cheese and salad and crunchy bread. The we went below and relaxed. We had to stop relaxing cos the anchor dragged, but the 25 knot wind blew us to Bodrum at 7 kts on just the genoa. It was exhilarating and my hair will recover eventually. Now at anchor off Bodrum the sun is setting behind the castle and the colours of the hills and the gullets blend into the darkening to make the shore lights look boring.
A bottle of Fleurie, some bri and Bob Dylan’s latest cd will see off the disco’s that are about to assail our eardrums. I love sailing.

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